Author Archive
Upgrading the Thing-O-Matic
I may be building a Prusa Mendel, my Makerbot Thing-O-Matic is working full time on my projects. I just received an Aluminum Build Surface for the Heated Build Platform. I installed it and calibrated the printer. I am very pleased with the results so far. I still have some tune-up to do to get good raft-less prints.
Building a Prusa Mendel 3D Printer
Last week I received my Prusa Mendel 3D printer kit from Makergear. I started to build the kit yesterday and after 5 hours here what I have. I guess I still have a lot of evenings to spend on that thing!
Bicycle Quick Release Headlight
I published a new thing on Thiniverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13877 This thing is a quick release bicycle headlight using magnets. I bought the magnets in a garage sale so I can’t really help you find the same magnets.
Instructions
Print the parts:
—————-
2 x clip2.stl
1 x magneta.stl
1 x magnetb.stl
Attach one clip2.stl to magneta.stl using a 1/2″ 6-32 bolt.
Attach the other clip2.stl to magnetb.stl using a 1/2″ 6-32 bolt.
Attach the base to the bicycle handle bar using a 1 1/2″ long 6-32 bolt.
Attach the light to the upper part using a 1 1/2″ long 6-32 bolt.
Superglue the magnets on the bottom of both magneta.stl and magnetb.stl
Make sure you align the small notches in the right direction for your setup.
What’s Next
- Would be nice to derive a new thing using more standard magnets.
- Making it in OpenScad would allows parametric parts.
- Adding new connectors to attach a camera, a map, …
Atmega328 Vcc pin
I received a comment from “N00B” on my Build an Arduino Clone post pointing out a mistake I made by connecting 5V power to the pin #6 instead of pin #7 of the Atmega328 micro-controller.
He was right and I changed the text of the article from pin #6 to pin #7 but, what puzzled me is that the circuit I made for this article was actually using pin #6 to power the micro-controller.
I still have this circuit all wired up in my lab. I validated that it works as well powered on pin #6 as on pin #7. How can that be? Anyone can explain that one to me?
The Maker Faire World in New York
Following the Open Hardware Summit I went to the Maker Faire World in New York city. This event was held in the same location as the OHS, at the New York Hall of Science.
3D printers were all over the place! Of course there was the 3D printing village where Makerbot, Makergear, Ultimaker, Botmill and other companies were exposing their stuff but you could also see a Makerbot in almost every booth of the exhibition.
Of course, there was not only 3D printers at the Maker Faire … We had a gigantic dinosaur/dragon throwing fire, a car covered with dancing fish and lobsters, bamboo bicycles and much more …
These are only 1% of all the great stuff you can find at the Maker Faire. This alone totally worth the trip from Montréal to New York!
For more information visit the Make Magazine website at makezine.com.
Open Hardware Summit
This was my first time at the ohsummit. The day was filled with great quality talks from speakers of all disciplines.
I first want to thanks Alicia and Ayah, the organizers for their great work. Everything was planned with details and efficiency.
The day had a great start with the presentation from Eric Wihelm, founder of Instructables. He demonstrated the power of kids creativity by presenting kids projects using Kinect blocks. These young members of the Instructable community have designed, built and improve Kinect guns, ranging from the pistol to the machine gun.
All the legal stuff has been packed in the morning sessions so that the afternoon talks were much more practical and, from my point of view, more interesting.
Gabrilla Levine presented a sailboat drone intended to clean up oil spills in water. The talk was loaded with project management experiences and tips.
Zach Liberman presented an earth touching talk about a device that allowed a paralyzed artist to make painting for the first time in years.
A few talks later, Bre Pettis talked about the creativity of the Thingiverse members by showing the evolution of some fun prints. The gangsta man transformed into a gangsta rabbit, a rabbit with a Colbert head, etc.
There were lots of other talks in the afternoon. I loved the presentation by the Lasersaur team. They managed, with very little fabrication skills, to build a fully functional four by two feet laser cutter. Great project!
The last talk has been made by Mitch Altman, the inventor of the TV B Gone. That was a very inspiring presentation where he invited the audience to invest their time in project they love!
To close the day there was breakout sessions and demos of the attendees projects. Our breakout session was about how to build and maintain a collaborative community of makers. Three speakers presented their projects and the way they managed their respective open source project.
Passed 20h, Hugo and me took a cab with two other peoples to the Makerbot party at their headquarter in Brooklyn. I met with great quality peoples from all over the world. I discussed my stars tracker with three members of the Makerbot team.
Tomorrow is off and Saturday I’ll head to the Maker Fair!
Parametric Arduino Case
When you make a project using an Arduino board, you often need a case to attach the Arduino onto your project. This small project is my first attempt to make such a case that can be adapted to all my projects.
To make it parametric I am using the OpenScad application. OpenScad is an open source 3D modeling software that allows you to model your objects using a dedicated scripting language. Because your object is made out of code, it is easy to make designes that are defined by configurable parameters.
Following is the code of the arduino case. As you will see at the top of the listing, many variables are defined so that you can adapt the object to your needs.
arduino_width = 54;
arduino_length = 69;
arduino_usb_width = 13;
arduino_usb_height = 15;
arduino_usb_x = 9.5;
arduino_power_width = 9.5;
arduino_power_height = 15;
arduino_power_x = 3.5;
wall_thickness = 2;
wall_height = 7;
bottom_thickness = 1;
side_shoulder = 6;
difference()
{
// Exterior box
cube([arduino_width+(2*wall_thickness),
arduino_length+(2*wall_thickness),
wall_height+bottom_thickness],
center=true);
// Interior recess
translate([0,0,bottom_thickness/2.0])
cube([arduino_width,
arduino_length,
wall_height],
center=true);
// Bottom hole
cube([arduino_width-(2*side_shoulder),
arduino_length-(2*side_shoulder),
wall_height+bottom_thickness],
center=true);
// USB hole
translate([-1*((arduino_width/2.0)-(arduino_usb_width/2.0)-arduino_usb_x),
-1*(arduino_length/2.0)-(wall_thickness/2.0),
-1*(wall_height/2.0-arduino_usb_height/2.0)+bottom_thickness/2.0])
{
cube([arduino_usb_width,
wall_thickness,
arduino_usb_height],
center=true);
}
// Power hole
translate([((arduino_width/2.0)-(arduino_power_width/2.0)-arduino_power_x),
-1*(arduino_length/2.0)-(wall_thickness/2.0),
-1*(wall_height/2.0-arduino_power_height/2.0)+bottom_thickness/2.0])
{
cube([arduino_power_width,
wall_thickness,
arduino_power_height],
center=true);
}
}
Visit my page on Thiniverse to get more details about this project. I invite you to explore this huge repository of objects. The future of 3D printing is great and this site is there to lead the way.
Maketbot and Open Hardware
Five months ago I wrote my last article on this blog … Five months ago, I also got my brand new Makerbot! I love so much making stuff with it that I forgot to write on my blog.
Now I am ready to share this with you. I am preparing some nice articles on this topic but you can visit my page on Thiniverse to see what I did so far.
I’ll be at the Open Hardware Summit next week (Sept. 15) in NY and at the Maker Fair the following weekend. I’ll post here some articles ant pictures if I can manage to get some free time.
Arduino Motor Controller Using an L293D Chip
Controlling DC motors is at the heart of many robotic projects. Servo motors are sexy but DC motors are cheap and a lot more useful to control wheel based robots. In this article I’ll display a “robot shield” circuit that allows you to use cheap motors to drive your robot.
Wiring
This shield has been built on top of the Adafruit Prototype Shield. Using the prototype shield makes it much simpler to develop a custom Arduino shield. You can get one from Adafruit here.
The assembly is powered by a 6V battery connected to the Vin pin of the Arduino and to the voltage regulator input pin. The voltage regulator output is connected to pin 9 (Vcc2) of the chip to power the motors. The Arduino 5V pin is connected to pin 16 of the controller to power the internal logic. Make sure to use a proper heat sink on the voltage regulator and on the chip (pins 4,5,12,13) if you plan to power the robot with a higher voltage source.
The L293 current driver chip amplifies the input signal received on pins 2, 7, 10 and 15 to outputs pins 3, 6, 11 and 14. This allows us to take a low power signal from our circuit and transform it into a higher power signal for the motors. Using these 4 input/output the L293 can drive two motors forward and backward.
Motor #1 is connected to pins 3 and 6 and motor #2 is connected to pins 11 and 14. To drive motor #1 you apply 5V on pin #2 and 0V on pin #7. To drive the same motor in opposite directions you apply 5V on pin #7 and 0V on pin #2. You can use the same technique to drive motor #2 with pins 10 and 15.
Speed can be controlled by sending a logical pulse to the L293 “enable input” pins. Pin #1 drives the speed of motor #1 and pin #9 of motor #2. The best way to do this is by using the Arduino PWM outputs on pins 9, 10 and 11. In this example, the Arduino pin #10 is connected to the L293 pin #1 and the Arduino pin #11 is connected to the L293 pin #9.
Speed And Direction
There are two methods to control the direction of a wheeled robot. One is to build a direction mechanism similar to cars where the wheels are oriented in the direction you want the robot to go. This method involves complex mechanisms and requires more space for the robot to maneuver.
The alternate method is to drive left and right wheels in opposite directions allowing the robot to make a sharp 360 degrees turn. This method requires no additional mechanism and is much simpler to implement by using a micro-controller. However, this method assumes that both motors are running at the same speed, which is often not the case with cheap motors.
This code shows how to control direction using the L293 chip with an Arduino board.
...
void backward()
{
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1B, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2B, HIGH);
checkDistance = 1;
}
void forward()
{
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1A, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1B, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2A, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2B, LOW);
checkDistance = 0;
}
void right()
{
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1B, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2A, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2B, LOW);
checkDistance = 0;
}
void left()
{
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1A, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1B, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2B, HIGH);
checkDistance = 0;
}
void stop()
{
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_1B, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2A, LOW);
digitalWrite(MOTOR_2B, LOW);
checkDistance = 0;
}
...
For example, the Tamiya double gearbox includes two low cost DC motors. The gearbox is amazing for small robotic projects but heading straight with these motors can be much more difficult than expected.
This is where the L293 chip comes to the rescue. This chip can control both the direction and the speed of the motors. To control the speed of the motors you connect the two PWM digital outputs of the Arduino micro-controller to the enable input pins 1 and 9 of the chip. As explained in the datasheet: “When an enable input is high, the associated drivers are enabled and their outputs are active and in phase with their inputs”.
You are now able to adjust the motor speeds by changing the PWM output value of the enable input of the faster motor. PWM outputs range from 0 to 255 so, to slow down a motor by a ratio of 10% you should set the associated PWM output to 230. Trial an error is the only way to get that done and make your robot head in a straight line.
void setup()
{
...
pinMode(10, OUTPUT); // To L293 pin #1
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); // To L293 pin #9
analogWrite(10, 185); // Faster motor at 72% of its full speed
analogWrite(11, 255); // Slower motor at 100% of its full speed
...
}
What’s Next
In a future article we will see how to use the shield to drive a simple Robot controlled by an infrared remote control. This project will pack together many tutorials published on this blog. If you have worked with the L293 chip to control motors, let us know in the comment section below.






















